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DFJ Glossary

Learn about many of the terms used in fine jewelry.

Alloy

A blend of different chemical components. In jewelry, these additional metals are incorporated into the precious metals to increase their strength.

Asscher Cut

Also known as a square emerald cut, this stone is often described as resembling that of an endless hallway of mirrors.

Bezel

A setting style that refers to a ring of metal that encloses within it a gemstone. Offers a protective outer layer for the inwardly placed stone.

Blemish

A flaw externally, on the surface of a gemstone.

Bridge

Uppermost section of the ring that holds the crown; this part sits on top of the finger.

CAD

Acronym for computer aided design, which uses computers to transform ideas into three dimensional digitized images. This, in turn, allows for enhanced visualization. Modifications can be made quickly and relatively inexpensively. Subsequently, lending to a more accurate end result and heightened actualization of the desired product.

Carat

The measurement of weight for all gemstones. Fun fact, the word ‘carat’ derives from the carob seed that was used long ago as a way of measuring small amounts. 1.00 carat = 0.2 grams.

Casting

(n.) The blank (without stones) metal replication of a jewelry design.(v.) The action of pouring liquid metal into a mold

Ceramic

Term used to encompass materials such as porcelain, stoneware, and earthenware that is both resistant to heat and corrosion.

Certification

Term used to for a gemstone that has been sent to an independent laboratory for grading and/or identification. Can be considered today as the 5th "C".

Clarity

A grade based on the presence or lack of inclusions and blemishes.

Clasp

A mechanism that allows for easy removal and addition of jewelry on the body.

Color

The lack of or presence of another hue within a diamond. Most commonly yellow or brown. Diamond color may range from colorless (DEF), near colorless (GHIJ), faint (KLM), very light (NOPQR), to light (STUVWXYZ).

Crown

The part of the diamond above the girdle.

Culet

Bottom facet (or tip) of a gemstone. Old-mine cut and Euro cut diamonds will have larger culets whereas the modern cuts will have small or no culets.

Cushion Cut

A combination of the round brilliant cut and the princess cut diamonds that showcases a roundish-square look.

Cut (Grade)

A grade assigned based on 12 factors that help determine how well a round diamond is finished. Cut grades are Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, or Poor. This directly affects the brilliance, fire, scintillation, and overall aesthetic appeal of the diamond.

Cut (Shape)

Determined by the overall look and facet pattern of a gemstone such as a round brilliant, emerald, oval, asscher, radiant, cushion, marquise, princess, pear, etc.

Depth

Measurement of the height of the gemstone. Expressed as a percentage, it is calculated by dividing the height by the width (average girdle diameter) of the gemstone. Ideally, the depth of the stone will not be too shallow nor too steep. Different cuts call for different ranges of depth percentage.

Earring Back

The component of a stud earring that is pierced by the post and allows it to sit securely on one’s ear. As with the post, the back can function by friction or screw.

Emerald Cut

A step cut diamond shape that features long parallel facets with angled corners. Cherished for its elegant appearance.

Fluorescence

The glow that can sometimes be emitted from a stone when exposed to UV light. Can appear in a variety of colors including blue, yellow, and even orange.

Girdle

The slim section between the pavilion and the crown of the diamond essentially creating a boundary between the portions of the stone.

Gold (White, Yellow, Rose)

Elemental symbol: (Au) Derived from the Latin word for gold, ‘aurum’. It is naturally yellow and malleable. In pure form (24 karat) it is not suitable for fine jewelry. However, some parts of the world cherish gold in the 20-24 karat purities.

Halo

Rim of gemstones surrounding a central gem.

Head

Highest portion of the ring.

Inclusion

A flaw internally, within a gemstone.

Karat

The term used with a number, to represent the relationship of gold to other alloys. Also represented as the initial "K" or "KT". 14K = 58.3% Gold. 18K = 75% Gold.

Laser

A method of jewelry production and repair, that harnesses a precise beam of energy to heat a small area without disruption to the metal or gemstones around it.

Marquise Cut

Similar in shape to a football, this cut features dualling points that seemingly draw the sparkle outward.

Melee

Diamonds weighing up to or less than 0.25 carats.

Milgrain

Intricate technique where metal is cut in a beaded or dotted fashion to enhance the borders within a piece of jewelry.

Millimeter

Also expressed as "mm". The standard unit of measurement for jewelry. Can be used to measure thickness of a ring, dimensions of a gemstone, and more.

Oval Cut

The elongated modification of the round brilliant diamond. Popular for its ability to seemingly lengthen the wearer’s fingers.

Pavilion

The part of the diamond below the girdle.

Pavé

French for ‘paved’, this refers to the setting of small diamonds, close in proximity to one another in multiple rows.

Pear Shape

A harmonious blend of a round brilliant and marquise cut diamond, often referred to as a teardrop or pear modified brilliant.

Platinum

Elemental symbol: (Pt) Derived from the Spanish word, ‘platina’, meaning “little silver”. For jewelry, it has a fineness of 90%-95%.

Point (carats)

Equal to 1/100 of a carat (0.01). A weight of 0.05 carats can be referred to as "5 points".

Point (gemstone)

The tip of various cuts of diamonds such as the pear, marquise, and heart.

Rhodium

Elemental Symbol: (Rh) Named after the Greek work for rose "rhodon", this pure white metal is plated to all white gold jewelry. And some sterling silver jewelry as well.

Solder

(v.) Action of connecting two pieces of metal together by heating, but never melting the base metals.(n.) A mixture of metals with lower melting points that allow one to connect two pieces of metal together.

Stainless Steel

An alloy containing at least 11% chromium. A popular choice in jewelry for its ability to resist corrosion which then allows it to maintain its original appearance.

Sterling Silver

An alloy of silver which contains approximately 92.5% silver with the remaining 7.5% being an alloy of other metals, usually copper.

Stud

This style of earring sits atop the lobe and does not dangle in any way.

Table

(n.) The top most facet of a gemstone.(%) Calculated by dividing the width of top facet by the gemstone's diameter.

Tantalum

Elemental symbol: TaThis metal is highly resistant to corrosion. Light to dark gray in color.

Wax Model

Once hand carved by a master jeweler to create an original design. In modern jewelry making, this is done by utilizing a 3D printer with specialized resins to produce a concept from a CAD program.